Some like it hot - SPiCES! 3, Oakland
Where did you go to eat on Memorial Day? As we drove down to Oakland, California, we passed by people picnicking on the beach, families grilling in the park, even some roller bladers gulping down a smoothie.
Yes, people are still roller blading. I know, I was surprised too.
Now, I enjoy eating al fresco as much as the next man, woman or dog, but we were in search of something different. Something spicier. Something that includes the phrases ‘Explosive Chili Pepper’, ‘Red Hot Oil’, and ‘Numbing Spicy Seaweed’. We were headed to SPiCES! 3 (sic), on 12th Street at Webster, in the heart of Oakland’s Chinatown. From the outside, it’s a fairly unremarkable place, with a graffito-ed sign and murky windows. Don’t let that put you off, however; inside, it’s all Chinese pop and glowing wall panels.
But all these are peripheral details. What’s really important is what’s on the menu, and what we ate. If you’re an adventurous eater, you’ll like it here. There’s all sorts of gooey insides available, from pig intestines (both large and small), liver, tendon… there’s one dish called ‘Gangsta’ Casserole ‘Murder Style’, and heaven knows what’s in that. They also have stinky tofu, which, as the name suggests, has been given an added odor by being soaked in brine and fermented milk.
As you might have guessed by now, we shied away from these a little (not least because one of our party is a vegetarian), but we were still more than satisfied with what we ultimately had. Cubes of tofu came deep fried in a crispy cornmeal jacket with dried chilies. Actually, that doesn’t quite do it justice – there was at least half a packet of them, sitting there like so many ruby red shells. It was hot. There was sweat on the top of my head.
Pork came fried up with garlic, green pepper and Szechuan spices. Whilst not quite as hot, it still packed a fair kick. Plus, there were plenty of those dried chilies to mix in. The highlight, actually, was a vegetable chow mein. We nearly didn’t order it, figuring it was too much of a takeout staple, but not doing so would have been a mistake. The noodles were light, perfectly dressed and just the right side of oleaginous, and came with fresh vegetables that retained a nice bite, and not the sogginess that betrays their frozen brethren. It was gloriously savory, and exactly what was needed to go with the fire of the other two dishes.
Between the two of us, our bill came to forty dollars, including our tip. Portions are more than generous (we took a lot home with us), and if you are a spice lover looking for a cheap thrill, get yourself down there. It’s cash only, they don’t serve alcohol, but they do have a fine range of Celine Dion concerts. Now that’ll douse the fieriest of souls…
